Galapagos Islands and MORE!

After getting back on board the ship, we had yet another fantastic lunch, and then got in our groups for our lesson to take to the school children next Monday.  My group is Steve, Mary Sue, Lyann and Jhonny (Galapaguean Principal from Isabela Island).  We discussed some options, found out that our students will be approximately 7-8th graders and we will have about 30 students in our class.  We immediately agreed that we wanted an activity that would involve all the students and get them up and out of their seats.  We are a very kinetic group ourselves and like to teach that way!  I recalled an activity that I do with my classes when discussing population growth and carrying capacity and needs for survival.  The group liked it and decided that we could adapt it to a local species to make it more real (at home I use deer).  Jhonny suggested the crabs, Zayapas.  Which are the beautiful red crabs that hang out on the black lava rocks making an incredible color contrast. We practiced the activity and then got ready for our afternoon landing on Espinosa Point on Fernandia Island.

Marine iguanas on Espinosa Point

We climbed into the pangas and were escorted to the rocks of the shore and hopped out.  Immediately, we noticed a ton of wildlife – marine iguanas so thick you could almost step on one if you were not watching your feet, a sea lion chasing another out of the cove, sea lions sunning, zayapas scurrying in and out of the black lava rocks, and two sea turtles in the water.  The island is teh third largest island at 642 sq km and one of the youngest Galapagos volcanoes.

As we traversed the rocks and got to a “sandier” (still pretty rocky! – nothing like our beautiful, sugar sand beaches of the Gulf Coast, but spectacular in their own way!) beach, we noticed several baby sea lions.  They were making noises with their mother’s that totally sound like E.T.!  I was stunned by the interaction between the young ones and most especially between the “mother” sea lions and their young. They were very cuddly and we even observed them feeding!  I was getting that weak-kneed, overwhelmed feeling  just trying to absorb the splendor of it all.

Finally, Danny herded us to move forward as we were only about a tenth of the way around and had snapped hundreds of photos of these few sea lions!  As we are walking, I stop to snap a photo of a striking piece of driftwood.  The group had stopped to look at the rare, Galapagos hawk on a nearby tree.  Well, low and behold, while I am snapping the pic of the driftwood, the super rare hawk (only 300 exist) takes flight and lands on the driftwood in front of me and poses! I caught the whole process on my camera.  I could not take the sensory overload any more and as we continue walking, I am in such utter bliss, tears well up from all of the experiences for the day.  The same was happening to Vicky and our group was pretty speechless just trying to soak all of it in.  Continuing around the island we also got our first glimpse of a fur sea lion, which is  much smaller than the other sea lion.  Not only that but we had a young sea lion that was very curious come directly up to us, sniff Joan’s shoes and leg and then brush up against Stephanie.  It was ALL I could do to contain myself and not reach out to pet it!  Killing me not to!  Made it back to the panga through the mangrove trees and headed back to the ship to download all that I had experienced!

Sea lion snuggle on Espinosa Point

Hawk Splendor on Espinosa Point

After finishing our hike around the back beach dunes, we came back to the black sandy beach to don our snorkeling gear and wet suits.  We were the last group back because we had spent so much time asking Danny “good questions” and he has such great answers! (wealth of knowledge!)  I knew I had to hurry in when I heard people exiting the water speaking of their experiences swimming with the sea turtles around the rocks!  Stephanie, Lyann and I rushed in and took off for the rocks.  Definitely different scenery than the snorkeling before, as there was a lot more algae, a little cloudier water and different types of fish.  As we approached the rocky area, I began to see the shape form in the water ahead.  The most BEAUTIFUL, docile, large, elegant creature slowly munching on the algae of the rocks underneath the water.  We were so awed.  We sat and swam around the top of the water above this serene sea turtle for what seemed like a very long time, but in reality was just several minutes.  Then this gorgeous, tolerant sea turtle started to swim towards me and with some awkward, gawky kicks of my fins I managed to get out of his way while continuing to film him.  He surfaced for air and then returned to his lunch plate on the rocks below.  Finally we had to get back to the beach because the boats were leaving, but I could have sat there suspended in the water watching him all day (well, maybe with a warmer wet suit on!).  On our way back, we spotted two more and continued our majestic experience.  I was so weak-kneed by the viewing that I just wanted to collapse on the rocky beach when I exited the water.  My friends were on the beach and let out a roar of laughter when I stated,”I could just die right now!”  because unbeknownst to me that was exactly what Stephanie had said seconds earlier on her exit.  Spectacular!  And still half a day to go!

Yellow flowers - favorite of the land iguana males!

This morning we had an incredible snorkeling and hiking experience on Isabela island.  Isabela is the largest island in the archipelago at 4,588 square kilometers. It is formed by five, young, active volcanoes, one of which (Volcano Wolf) is the highest point in the Galapagos.  As we disembarked the panga onto the black rock sandy beach, we were instructed to stay close to shore and not pass the “Stop” signs high up on the beach that indicated where the sea turtle nests are located.  Danny (our guide) gave us some phenomenal information about the island and the giant tortoises (largest population on this island in Galapagos) and how the pirates would load them up onto the ships to take and unload goats to roam free to live off the land.  They would do this because the tortoises did not have to have freshwater (scarce commodity) because they hold water in a pericardial cavity and do not urinate.  Also they are able to go extremely long periods of time without food.  Therefore, they made an excellent source of meat for them on the ships.  Meanwhile, the feral goats became invasive and overpopulated the area without natural predators.  They would eat all the vegetation in the area and when the female sea turtles would come down from the hillsides to the areas below to nest, there would not be enough of a food source for them and they would return without nesting.  Therefore, their population numbers were declining dramatically.

The Charles Darwin Research Station (www.charlesdarwinfoundation.org) got involved with a feral goat eradication program.  They used dogs to track the males and sterilize them.  The program has been extremely successful in the eradication efforts.  As we hiked up the beach and into the primary dune ecosystem, we noticed so many finches flying all around and got to see some up close!  We also observed the land iguanas.  Danny explained that they are currently “happy” because they are more yellow in their coloration, which means they have been eating a large amount of yellow flowers that fall to the ground to increase their yellow skin color to attract a mate. The land iguanas that we saw were laying near their burrows, which allow them to survive through the drop in temperature at night because they are cold blooded creatures (reptiles).  We also saw a “young” 25 year old male giant tortoise!  But the best was yet to come….

That is the most incredible quality of this entire experience…..everything just keeps getting better……

Urbina Bay, Isabela

Danny's map to explain the formation of the islands

Land Iguana next to burrow on Isabela Island

11-25-2010 Afternoon

After our fabulous lunch on the ship in the galley, we prepared for the hiking, swimming and snorkeling at Bartolome Bay.  We were so pumped to be going snorkeling again and now among one of the most visually recognized places in the Galapagos Islands – Pinnacle Rock.  Our group got to do the snorkeling first and then go to the hike afterwards. As our panga pulled up to the beach to disembark, we were greeted by a penguin and a marine iguana on the rocks! Seeing these on our way on to the beach was surreal!  They seemed to have been planted for us to take pictures!

After jumping out on to the beach and wriggling into our wet suits, I did the best I could to avoid getting the lava rock beach material stuck in my fins, but doing so was not possible.  So I gave up and entered the chilly water.  Stephanie and I swam around and saw all kinds of fish and as we rounded the corner of Pinnacle  Point, a white tipped reef shark!  I got a quick glimpse of it swimming by, which was amazing!  Seals were also swimming by all around us and some of us even caught a QUICK glimpse of the penguins sliding through the water. These guys were by far the fastest creatures in the water.  All types of fish were around the rocks – surgeon fish, Sargent Major’s fish, parrotfish, butterfly fish and some beautiful starfish and purple urchins were all over the rocks.

Next our group got to go over and climb the 326 steps to the summit of the island for some spectacular sunset views across the bay.  All along the way, our incredible guide, Daniel was sharing a wealth of information about the plants and volcanic material.  We learned about the tequiya plant that sends out poisons from its roots to prevent others from growing around it and the gray color it has adapted to deal with the sun’s intense radiation.  These plants were sparse across the dense lava rocks, which made it look like what I image plants would look like growing on the surface of Mars.  As we hiked up the teak steps, we also learned about the native Escalacia tree that is related to the sunflower plant and is indigenous.  Our group also noted all the neat lava tubes extending down the hill side and the pyroclastic cones known as “parasitic cones” around the main vent.  Finally we made it to the top and sang “Happy Birthday” to Rita, as it was her 50th birthday and watched the sunset and snapped tons of pictures.  Amazing Thanksgiving Day!

Penguin and marine iguana greeters for Bartolome Island!

Using my Superhero powers holding up the pyroclastic rocks on Bartolome Island!

Pinnacle Point, Bartolome Island

http://media.bcbe.org/play.php?vid=1895 Click here to see my first day swimming with the sea lions at Academy Bay!

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Another exciting adventure, AND it is Thanksgiving Day! What a great combo, as there is SO much for which to be thankful! Of course, I awoke to the chirps of the finches outside my window first of all.  That in and of itself is amazing to me. Only a few people (maybe only me!!)on the planet are saying to themselves, “I am waking up to Darwin’s finches singing outside my window”!  Fantastic.

We all loaded up on the bus with everyone scurrying to utilize the last Internet connection that we will have for several days, as we will board the MV Galapagos Legend this morning. On our way to board the ship, however, in true Toyota International Teacher Program style we had a packed schedule!  First of all, we met the Director of the Recycling Center of Santa Cruz, Ulf Hardtner.  He has worked for several years getting the recycling program for the island up and running and works with many different

Ulf Hardtner at Fabricio Valverde Recycling Center

organizations that sponsored the development and construction of the project. One of the main contributors is Toyota and they continue to commit to the success of the program, as does World Wildlife Fund. I am impressed that all the supporting corporations realize the importance of this service to the islands.  With such limited space on islands, waste is an incredible thing to consider.  Many islands simply burn their garbage, but this contributes to air pollution and Carbon Dioxide and there is still the issue of the items that do not burn.   The Fabricio Valverde Recycling Center is quite an amazing facility, as it collects and recycles all colors of glass, paper, organic waste, aluminum, cardboard and metal.  Ulf described the hurdles that have been overcome with the program and how he essentially had to “sell” the program to the municipality and created the first Environmental Department in the city of Puerto Ayora. He also described the 2001 Jessica Tanker Oil Spill that affected the islands and that this was the spur to Toyota and WWF’s involvement in the energy sector of social services for the islands. He also described how the materials are processed at the facility and prepared to be shipped back to the mainland.  I was amazed to learn that beer and coke bottles have a $1 deposit on them!  Wow! That would definitely be an incentive to get them returned! He also informed us that approximately 12 TONS of material per day is coming in from the mainland that must be dealt with.  The program has incorporated recycling bins all over the island that are three colors: black for garbage, blue for recyclable materials and green for organic wastes.  This struck me as a definite commonality that we have even at Fairhope High School with our blue bins in our classrooms for the paper recycling that we do!

Crushed clear glass for recycling

We observed the Biohazard Waste Incinerator that processes materials 1 day per week.  I had not even considered the fact that they must process this material as well!  The incinerator was somewhat small, but uses a great amount of diesel fuel to reach the required temperatures of 800-2000 degrees Celsius!  Ulf continued our tour around the back portion of the facility where the smell of a landfill really kicked in. This was not actually a landfill, but the composting field for organic material.  Toyota donated a mechanical composter that increases the time for breakdown to 7 days in the machine that looks like a big steel drum that continuously, very slowly turns to speed up the process.  The material is also heated to 50-60 degrees Celsius to kill seeds that may be a part of the waste and will avoid invasive species introductions when farmers use the final product on local fields! Very neat!  They have thought of everything!

Our next learning adventure consisted of a visit to the Baltra Fuel Terminal.  Upon

Composting Machine at Recycling Facility

arrival, we could see our ship, MV Galapagos Legend, in the distance and could not wait to board. However, we were easily redirected when we got to don the hardhats and safety vests to enter the highly guarded fuel facility.  This facility was built by Toyota after the 2001 Jessica Oil Spill and the employees were trained with the most up to date technology to monitor the enormous holding tanks. The employees were obviously very proud of their facility and their jobs.  They shared with us the safety valves and catchment basins and the computer monitoring systems that they use to avoid pollution to the surrounding environment.  This facility provides fuel for all ships and cars on the islands.

After our quick tour, we made our way to the dock to hop on the “pangas” or inflatable boats/zodiacs that toted us out to our home for the next four days.  And what a home it was!  We had no idea of the wonderful goodness that was in store, but literally got a taste as soon as we entered the embarkation area of the “Sea Deck” as there were beautiful fruit drinks and fresh fruit snacks waiting on us.  The wood and polished brass

Baltra Fuel Terminal

everywhere was spectacular, and I was struck by the fantastic artwork of local fauna all around.  We headed to the “Earth Deck” got our keys from the very accommodating staff and Joan and I headed to our “land iguana” theme room.  When we got to our room, the most notable thing was the spectacular windows that extended the length of the room with the beautiful scenery.  WOW – what a difference from the research vessels I have been used to traveling on in the past!  I don’t think I have ever had more than a porthole window – definitely a different experience!  Not to mention the beautiful pool area, and jacuzzi on the back of the Sky Deck.  After a fabulous buffet lunch in the restaurant, we headed up to the meeting area for our Group Project Overview. This included a welcome introduction for us and information about our afternoon of hiking, swimming and snorkeling on Bartolome Island!  No kidding!  We had an ENTIRE afternoon filled with new adventures.  What a great Thanksgiving!

Brenda and I donning safety gear!Pangas!

Land Iguana Theme Room with VIEW!Pangas!

Pangas!